REUPHOLSTERY

By Sarah Martin

The retail dealer in furniture must accustom himself to being able to recognize qualities in upholstered furniture bought from the manufacturer, as in no other line of work is it possible to pass off inferior goods so easily.

The actual upholstery is entirely covered in a finished chair or sofa, and often two finished chairs will appear exactly similar in outward aspect, yet one will outwear the other several times over. It is safe to say that 90% of the wholesale manufacturers do not furnish the best grade of material and workmanship in the goods that they sell. In the first place, all upholstery frames should be made of ash.

The exposed portions only, such as feet or arms, should be made of the decorative wood required, such as oak, mahogany or walnut, etc. Webbing which upholds the springs and corner guards (http://www.ferche.com) should be four inches wide, and the best grade has four red threads running parallel about one-half inch from each edge. The inferior grades are narrower, with blue and black threads at the edges instead of red.

The webbing should be tightly stretched and interlaced and should be nailed with seven tacks at each end. If good webbing is used, it can generally be taken for granted that the better quality goods are used throughout. The webbing can be examined by tearing off a corner of the black cambric covering underneath the chair.

The next item to examine on an upholstered piece is the gimp which covers the tacks. This should be of good quality and well glued, firm and flat, instead of being tacked to the frame. The stronger springs should be in the middle of the seat, the weaker in the rear and the balance in the front and sides. The best grade of springs have the ends of the springs knotted to the next loop, the inferior grades do not, the ends being merely cut off along with the corner protector (http://www.ferche.com).

The advantage of the knotted spring is that it cannot unwind or get loose from its fastening and gradually slip through the upholstery material. The springs should be japanned or enameled. Each spring should be tied in six places with a firm knot instead of a simple loop and they should be all tied together, each in four directions. The ends of the springs should be nailed firmly to the frame work. The springs should be covered on top with a piece of heavy burlap and each spring should be sewed to the burlap in four places.

A continuous twine should be used. The best hair is "South American Drawings," which is long and soft horse hair that has been sterilized, treated and curled, either black or white in color. The white is slightly more expensive but no better in quality.

There should, however, be no short pieces mixed in. The hair is placed on top of the burlap which covers the springs, and under the cross-stitching of twine, the hair is worked and interlaced by the experienced upholsterer. Over this is loosely tacked a piece of light burlap, which in turn is sewn to the under heavy burlap. This is done by means of a series of squares covering the whole scat or back.

After this is completed, additional hair is worked in, and then the top piece of light burlap is tacked tightly down to the frame and wall protectors with tacks about 1/4" apart. The edgings are now shaped and the edge stitching made, under which is placed a thin layer of hair and over this is placed unbleached material, firmly stretched and tacked on the sides. Over this is placed a layer of cotton wadding, and finally the finished material, which is tacked closely to the molding. The gimp is then glued over the tacks as a finish, and finally the black cambric is nailed to the bottom side and the piece is complete.

In inferior workmanship, the stuffing may be of excelsior, sea weed, moss, goats' hair, pigs' hair, or old rags, and with the amount of detailed labor and the number of processes used in properly doing upholstery work, one can readily judge that the quality of both material and workmanship can be very greatly varied, causing the actual cost of the finished work to run a considerable range, all of which can be hidden under the final covering.


Sarah Martin is a freelance marketing writer from San Diego, CA. She specializes in do-it-yourself home maintenance and improvement, from wall protectors to corner guards. For the best in the hardwood molding industry, please visit http://www.ferche.com/.Source:www.isnare.com

One of the best ways to make your project look and feel great is knowing about foam. Pick the wrong thing and your may feel you are sitting on a board or in a bucket. Chose the right foam, and you will add years to you comfort and the life of your furniture. Easily 25% of all furniture repairs I see deal with bad padding. The point is start with good foam and you won't be sorry. Although some might not want to be believe this, but cushion fill is one of the easiest things to understand in upholstery. There are only 2 simple things you should know.

Foam has 2 basic element Density and Firmness. Density or weight which is the first element and this tell you how much material goes into the product i.e. the more it weighs the higher the density and the higher the density the higher the weight. The second element tells you the firmness of the product. which is how much weight it takes to compress the foam 1/3. That is a 1 cubic foot block of foam will compress 1/3 when a weight equal to it firmness number is placed on the figure. These elements are expressed in numbers as Density / Firmness. Here is an example of two 15/15 and 29/52.Since we know what each set of numbers represents, Density / Firmness (or we can also say Weight / Firmness), we can figure out the destiny and firmness of our foam.15/30 = 1.5 pounds of padding per cubic foot will take 30 pounds of weight to compress the block 33% or 1/3. And 29/52 = 2.9 pounds per cubic foot and it will take 52 pounds of weight to compress this block 1/3. See not so hard as some might lead you to think. Now what does this mean to you and your furniture?

Here are some simple rules to consider to help guide us: For seats the thicker the padding the lower compression weight we want. For seats the thinner the foam the higher the compression weight we want. For seats we want a high density foam no less then 2.2 For backs we want a density no higher then 1.8 Make all our foam 1/2 inch bigger all the way around then your cover or pattern i.e. 4 inch boxing = 5 inch foam, 29 inch wide seat = 30 inch, 18 inch seat board = 19 inch foam and so on. This way you will have a nice tight seat. Always rap our foam in bonded dacron or fiber batting. I'll make it even simpler and let we know what destiny/firmness I would consider for my projects using the above information.

Seat: Dining room chairs 1.5 to 3 inch foam 29/52 Chair, Sofa, and love seat 4 to 5 inch 25/35, Chair, Sofa, and love seat 6 to 8 inches go 22/30.Note: These numbers are industry guides not rules. So there is some variation in numbers like 28/53 instead of 29/52 but basically the same thing. Just a mill change. Keep in mind we want the highest density you can get for the firmness we chose. In choosing high-density we add years to your comfort.Firm low-density products may go as little as a few weeks or months until we start to see or feel it losing it's comfort and shape. Hence most warranties do not cover "foam losing its shape or getting soft."

A Key Take Away: Padding that is low in weight, although firm, will not last or support as well as a high density softer padding. example: 25/35 will last years longer, in my real world expernce, then 10/35 for seats. It is literally days or months compared to years or decades. I upholstered a large set of Dr office waiting room chairs when I was an apprentice. We replaced the cover and the foam with 29/52 2 inch. Some 15 years later, I reupholstered the same chairs with new fabric but did not need to replace the foam. 15 years later it was still going strong. The Dr office may have saved $800.00 by having us install the right product for the job. This knowledge is way we can warranty quality seat cushions for 5 years. Knowing the numbers of density to firmness is the key. This is what we aren't supposed to understand. Density is the key to foam comfort and life.

Simply put, for seats, the higher the density the longer the life. What if we want for a back? Then here is a little guide we can reference. Backs: Firm back 18/18 Softback 15/15.
http://eisenbergupholstery.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Eisenberg

If your favorite old sofa has lost that new look and feel, then consider replacing the cushion foam. This simple project can be completed in less than an hour and will have your couch looking and feeling like new again.

Sofa cushions contain a foam rubber insert that is typically manufactured from a polyurethane foam. Over time, the foam in your couch cushions starts to break down and lose that firm feeling. This breakdown is accelerated with frequent use. Your guests may appear to sit 'in' your couch, as opposed to 'on' your couch as the cushions sag under their weight.
There is a simple four step process that can be completed by almost anyone and will breathe new life back into your sofa.

Step 1 - Get accurate measurements of your existing cushions. You should obtain the length, width, and thickness of the cushions. If your cushions are not an exact square or rectangle, the longest edges should be measured. It is advisable to remove your foam from one of your cushions when obtaining these measurements to ensure accuracy.

Step 2 - Order the new foam. With your existing measurements in hand, you should have everything you need to determine what size cushion replacement foam you need to order. Be aware that you have the option of selecting different degrees of firmness for your new foam. Select a block of replacement foam that meets or exceeds the size of your existing cushions. Realize that one large six foot block of foam can be cut to size to accommodate multiple cushions.

Step 3 - Cut your replacement foam to size. Remove your old cushions from their covers. Lay these on top of the new replacement foam, and trace an outline around the edges with a marker. You now have a template that will allow you to cut your foam to the exact size and shape required. An electric carving knife is perfect for cutting ths foam and it can be done with ease. A standard sharp knife with a long blade can be used as well. Caution should always be used when handling sharp instruments. Make sure that your knife is perpendicular to the foam when cutting to ensure that your replacement cushions are square.

Step 4 - Stuffing the replacement foam into the cushion covers. If you are using a dacron fiber wrap, you will want to wrap the replacement foam now. Make sure that the ends of the dacron meet on the outside edges of the replacement foam to keep the fiber wrap seam from showing. Insert your cushion foam into the cushion cover. It may be necessary to compress the foam to get it back in. Once inserted, make sure that all the edges are square within the cushion cover.
This simple process of installing cushion replacement foam is outlined in more detail at CouchCushionReplacementFoam.com. We are professional online providers of discount cushion foam for interior sofas and chairs. We aggregate products from multiple suppliers to ensure that you find the best deal.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Moore

Homeowners invest a lot to ensure that their homes will look good. They invest in furniture to complete the comfortable feel of their homes. In order for the furniture to last long, it is important to give it the proper cleaning and maintenance it deserves.
Upholstered furniture is among our favorite. This is because we can choose the different colors we want that will go well with our interior. This makes it essential to learn how to clean upholstery. Keeping the furniture clean will help increase its life. In addition, you will be safe from dust and other forms of dirt from the furniture.

Cleaning your upholstery is not that difficult. Here are some tips to help you out:

1. Vacuum it as often as you vacuum your carpet. This will prevent the dust from setting deeper in the upholstery. It will make your monthly deep cleaning routine easier as well.

2. Remove all removable cushions when cleaning. See to it that you vacuum all its side, from the back to the front, and under the cushion. You can use a handheld brush with gentle ends to loosen the dirt from within. Vacuum it right away so that the dirt would not spread.

3. Clean spills and visible dirt immediately. Do not wait for the liquid spills to dry. Just like in carpets, blot as much of the liquid as you can. The longer the spill stays on your upholstery, the more difficult it is to clean. The moisture from the liquid can also damage the fabric that is why blotting as much of the liquid off is ideal.

4. Test commercial upholstery cleaner before using it on the furniture. Keep in mind that cleaners contain harsh chemicals. Test them first in the unnoticeable portions of the upholstery. Observe if there is any discoloration or fading. Keep in mind that there are different types of materials; cleaning leather upholstery requires different cleaner compared with ordinary fabrics. If there is discoloration or fading, stop using the cleaner.

5. Always use soft clean cloth when removing the stain. This will ensure that you will not damage your upholstery. You can also be sure that you are not transferring more dirt to the upholstery than you are removing it.

You do not have to do thorough cleaning on your upholstery every day. Just vacuum it at least twice a week and schedule a deep cleaning once in every two months. Just make sure that you remove the stain as soon as you see it. This will make it easier.
Cleaning your upholstery is not as difficult as it may seem. Just see to it that you have the right cleaner and the basic knowledge to deal with the furniture.
BIO

Roby Pagoni is a cleaning expert. For more great cleaning tips to keep your home clean and organized fast, visit http://www.speedcleaningstrategy.com/upholstery-care.html
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